Caractéristiques de l'objet
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État
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Brand
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Thierry Mugler
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Outer Shell Material
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Silk Blend
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Size Type
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Regular
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Department
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Women
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Type
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Jacket
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Size
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L
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Color
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Blue
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Lining Material
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Acetate
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Style
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Empire
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MPN
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Claude Montana, Romeo Gigli, Roksanda, Maticevski, Andrew Gn, David Koma, Azzedine Alaia, Roland Mouret, Magda Butrym, Ema Savahl, Alexis Mabille, Rhea Costa, Sybil Connolly, Badgley Mischka, Norman Norell, Dorothy O’Hara
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Fabric Type
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Satin
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Vintage
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Yes
Description de l'objet fournie par le vendeur
Occasion - Très bon état
SUNDAZED & OUTSIDE SOCIETY | exotic vintage, bespoke & handmade novelty in action
Featured in the FIT Museum (New York). Circa 1996.
Vintage (minor flaws) three crystals are missing at top closure, light wear underarm.
Tag: 40
Size: L
Color: Sapphire
Fabric: Satin
Material: Silk Blend
Composition: 62% Wool 38% Silk
Measurements (cm):
Chest: 48
Length: 67
Shoulder: 41
Sleeve: 59
Claude Montana emerged in the late 1970s, gaining renown for his sharp tailoring, bold shoulders, and futuristic silhouettes that defined much of 1980s power dressing. This jacket’s lustrous cobalt-blue surface and structured waist nod to Montana’s signature approach to sculpting the female form, often showcased in his strong-shouldered collections. Its construction appears to rely on precise paneling and shaping through the torso, reminiscent of Montana’s meticulous methods, and the crisp collar recalls his penchant for geometric necklines. The material blend, which seems to have a high-sheen satin finish, aligns with Montana’s love of innovative textiles that reflect light and highlight strong angles. Historically, Montana pushed boundaries by amplifying the female silhouette, and here the dramatic waist shaping echoes that era’s fascination with bold, architectural lines. In final assessment, this piece captures Montana’s spirit through its confident form and luminous textile, situating it firmly in the tradition of 1980s-inspired glamour. Romeo Gigli rose to prominence in the late 1980s, countering the decade’s angular aesthetic with a softer, romantic approach. While this jacket is more structured than Gigli’s fluid drapery, the subtle curvature at the hem and the graceful shaping around the hips evoke Gigli’s poetic sensibility. The hidden seaming suggests careful, almost intimate construction, paralleling Gigli’s quiet approach to garment-making. A silky, lightweight material that glides over the body fits Gigli’s preference for refined, delicate fabrics, and the color’s richness is in line with the jewel tones often found in his collections. Historically, Gigli reintroduced a more gentle, feminine silhouette, and the scalloped edges and elegantly shaped waist here could reflect that ethos. The final impression is a harmonious blend of structured romance, echoing Gigli’s dedication to understated luxury. Roksanda, helmed by Roksanda Ilinčić, is known for architectural shapes, bold color palettes, and an artful blend of femininity and structure. This jacket’s striking cobalt hue directly parallels Roksanda’s passion for vibrant shades that demand attention. The design features a sculptural collar and a distinctive front closure that hints at a refined yet imaginative approach to tailoring, aligning with Roksanda’s fascination with volume and modern silhouettes. Construction-wise, the piece’s shaped seams and curved hem illustrate a complexity often seen in Roksanda’s runway pieces, where each panel is carefully engineered to create visual intrigue. Rooted in an artistic background, Roksanda draws on art and sculpture, and the jacket’s bold color blocking and smooth satin finish resonate with that influence. Ultimately, the garment captures Roksanda’s ethos of empowering silhouettes, confirming its place in a realm of sophisticated, statement-making design. Maticevski, an Australian label led by Toni Maticevski, is celebrated for architectural draping and refined eveningwear. This jacket’s sculpted waist and flared hip panels reflect Maticevski’s sculptural tendencies, often evidenced in the label’s modern, structured silhouettes. The glossy finish is consistent with Maticevski’s frequent use of high-shine textiles that add drama to streamlined cuts. The precise tailoring, likely featuring hidden darts and curved seaming, mirrors Maticevski’s technical mastery, and the interior lining suggests a meticulous approach to comfort and drape. Artistically, Maticevski pieces often balance contemporary minimalism with a touch of couture-like construction, and the minimal yet striking toggle closures align with that refined restraint. In a final perspective, this piece resonates with Maticevski’s aesthetic through its architectural lines, luxurious sheen, and the poised yet forward-thinking spirit that defines the brand. Andrew Gn, a Singaporean-born designer based in Paris, is recognized for his attention to opulent fabrics, intricate detailing, and a fusion of Eastern and Western influences. This jacket’s high-sheen material, structured silhouette, and sophisticated collar echo Gn’s penchant for polished, feminine tailoring. The shaped waist and careful seaming speak to the kind of precise construction that Gn consistently integrates into his collections, while the curved front hem nods to his decorative flourishes. Technically, the choice of a satin or satin-blend fabric, likely mid-weight, aligns with Gn’s love of luxurious textiles that hold their shape yet drape elegantly. He often draws on art history and diverse cultural references for inspiration, and the subtly theatrical look of this cobalt piece, with its refined closures, would easily fit within his repertoire of timeless yet distinctive evening jackets. The final impression is one of global elegance, merging formality with statement-making glamour in the spirit of Andrew Gn. David Koma, a Georgian-born designer based in London, is famed for his body-conscious silhouettes and modern take on embellishment. Though this jacket is more traditional in its tailoring than Koma’s usual contoured dresses, the sleek sheen and dramatic color would fit into his runway repertoire, where bold textures and metallic accents are common. The slim-fitting cut through the torso, accentuated by curved seaming, resonates with Koma’s love of flattering shapes that enhance the wearer’s figure. From a technical standpoint, the garment’s structured shoulder line and tapered sleeves reflect the kind of exact pattern drafting Koma employs to achieve a confident, contemporary fit. Artistically, Koma often looks to architectural forms, and the jacket’s crisp collar and angular front flaps suggest a similar geometric influence. Ultimately, the piece aligns with Koma’s emphasis on powerful femininity, standing out as a statement piece that echoes his modern, polished aesthetic. Azzedine Alaia, the late Tunisian couturier, built a legacy around precise tailoring, second-skin fits, and the celebration of the female form. While this garment’s satin finish differs from Alaia’s frequent use of knit or more matte textiles, the waist-defining cut and contoured seams evoke his meticulous craftsmanship. In Alaia’s collections, garments are often engineered to flatter curves through complex paneling, and here, the jacket’s shaped back and side seams suggest a similar approach. The neckline, with its sharp collar, channels Alaia’s preference for clean lines around the décolletage, and the structured silhouette references his iconic hourglass shapes. Historically, Alaia’s mastery of technique revolutionized 1980s and 1990s fashion, and this jacket’s silhouette recalls that era’s sculpted elegance. Conclusively, it pays homage to Alaia’s ethos of celebrating the body through expert tailoring, aligning with his timeless, body-focused design language. Roland Mouret is best known for his Galaxy dress and a broader oeuvre defined by architectural folds, strategic seaming, and feminine silhouettes. This jacket’s smooth, contoured lines across the bust and waist strongly parallel Mouret’s hallmark technique of using darts and panels to create structure without sacrificing fluidity. The sumptuous sheen is consistent with his preference for fabrics that lend a polished surface, and the minimal but impactful front closures align with his restrained approach to detailing. Mouret’s background in sculpture and draping is apparent in how this piece likely hugs the torso and flares slightly at the hip. From a historical standpoint, Mouret revitalized structured, body-conscious tailoring in the early 2000s, and this jacket’s streamlined shape feels like an extension of that era’s refined silhouettes. The final verdict sees a garment that would effortlessly slot into Mouret’s collection, capturing his sophisticated, form-accentuating DNA. Magda Butrym, hailing from Poland, is renowned for contemporary designs that frequently reference 1980s aesthetics, from puffed sleeves to vibrant hues. The lustrous cobalt blue of this piece and the pronounced shaping at the waist speak to Butrym’s flair for statement silhouettes, while the subtle curvature at the front hem resonates with her romantic, vintage-infused details. Technically, Butrym often integrates high-quality silks and satins to achieve a luxurious finish, and the toggled closure here could mirror the distinctive hardware or embellishments she sometimes uses for edgy contrast. Her brand ethos draws on the interplay between strong tailoring and feminine flourishes, which is evident in the structured shoulders and delicate sheen. Historically, Butrym reinvents classic 80s cues for modern women, and this jacket fits comfortably within that narrative, embodying a confident yet nostalgic allure that aligns with her signature style. Ema Savahl is recognized for artistic, form-fitting pieces that often feature custom prints and textures, but the brand’s emphasis on body-conscious silhouettes and distinctive finishes aligns with this jacket’s overall shape and sheen. While Savahl is more commonly associated with elaborately painted dresses, the meticulous shaping seen here, especially around the bust and waist, speaks to the label’s penchant for curve-enhancing designs. The mid-weight satin could be reminiscent of the brand’s exploration of unique textile treatments, and the toggles at the front might mirror Savahl’s experimental approach to closures or embellishments. Historically, Ema Savahl stands out for fusing art and fashion, and though this piece is more restrained, its glossy finish and sculptural fit maintain that spirit of wearable art. Ultimately, it complements Savahl’s creative ethos through a polished, event-ready style that hints at a slightly avant-garde edge. Alexis Mabille, a French designer trained under iconic houses, is known for blending couture-level craftsmanship with playful details and color. The strong collar, shaped front, and polished material reflect Mabille’s typical focus on crisp tailoring and dramatic flourishes, while the bright cobalt recalls the bold hues that frequently animate his collections. Technically, the jacket’s contoured seaming and structured waist reflect a high degree of pattern complexity, mirroring Mabille’s couture sensibilities. Drawing on historical influences, Mabille often plays with tuxedo elements and feminine reinterpretations of menswear, and this piece’s formal jacket silhouette with a subtle twist at the hem is a testament to that duality. Conclusively, the refined toggles at the front, coupled with the lustrous textile, situate this piece comfortably within Mabille’s world of elevated, modern elegance. Rhea Costa is celebrated for refined evening and bridal attire that features fluid draping, yet the brand also includes structured separates with elegant finishes. This jacket’s luminous fabric and waist emphasis connect to Rhea Costa’s approach to highlighting the female form with sophisticated silhouettes. The brand’s designs often feature thoughtful seam placements and impeccable lining, which parallels the careful interior construction likely present here. Rhea Costa is influenced by timeless glamour, and the piece’s balanced proportions and subtle, sculptural lines capture that sense of understated luxury. Though the brand frequently embraces soft drapery, the jacket’s polished contouring suggests it could serve as a dramatic statement layer over one of Rhea Costa’s flowing gowns. Ultimately, it echoes the label’s dedication to refined craftsmanship and discreetly impactful design. Sybil Connolly, an Irish designer who rose to fame in the mid-20th century, was celebrated for luxurious fabrics and impeccable tailoring. Though best known for her pleated linens and feminine silhouettes, her couture background is relevant here: the shaped bodice, sophisticated collar, and structured peplum-like flare at the hips echo the meticulous fit that defined her garments. The glossy satin finish, while not her signature fabric, would still resonate with Connolly’s devotion to rich textiles that exude elegance. Historically, she brought a romantic yet precise aesthetic to Irish fashion, and this jacket’s strong lines, subtle waist emphasis, and polished closures speak to that heritage of graceful, couture-level execution. In final assessment, it aligns with Connolly’s ethos of refined femininity and couture craftsmanship, reinterpreted for a more contemporary setting. Badgley Mischka is an American label synonymous with red-carpet glamour, typically showcasing evening gowns and cocktail attire that emphasize luxury and sparkle. This jacket’s satin sheen, tailored fit, and statement color neatly fit into the brand’s world of opulent fabrics and event-ready designs. The shaped waist and contoured seams recall the label’s commitment to figure-enhancing silhouettes, while the minimal toggle hardware could be seen as a refined nod to the embellishments that often appear on Badgley Mischka’s gowns. Historically, the brand draws from classic Hollywood for inspiration, and the luminous quality of this cobalt piece certainly suggests a show-stopping presence under lights. As a final note, the garment’s structured elegance and polished finish would seamlessly transition from a formal reception to a high-profile event, reflecting Badgley Mischka’s hallmark of timeless glamour. Norman Norell, a seminal figure in American fashion during the mid-20th century, was known for his sophisticated tailoring, use of fine fabrics, and quiet elegance. This jacket’s strong structure through the shoulders and nipped-in waist echoes Norell’s famed precision, where clean lines and impeccable fit took precedence over overt decoration. The luminous satin recalls the sumptuous textiles Norell often employed in his cocktail suits and dresses, while the gently curved front edges reflect his subtle yet refined detailing. Historically, Norell introduced a level of couture-like craftsmanship to American ready-to-wear, and the flawless finish here would align with that tradition of high-quality construction. The piece stands as a contemporary interpretation of Norell’s legacy, exuding the understated yet powerful sophistication he championed. Dorothy O’Hara, an American designer who thrived in the mid-century era, was revered for her elegantly contoured dresses and jackets that accentuated the waist. This jacket’s sculpted torso, shaped back seams, and flared hips capture that signature focus on highlighting feminine curves. The satiny fabric and neat collar would have fit well in O’Hara’s repertoire of formal day or evening suits, which often played with lustrous textiles to catch the eye. Technically, the piece’s crisp lines and careful internal structure suggest a heritage of expert tailoring that O’Hara prized. She drew on the Hollywood glamour of her time, and this jacket’s bold yet refined silhouette channels that cinematic flair. In final reflection, it resonates with O’Hara’s tradition of spotlighting the waist and creating a confident, polished look for women, bridging vintage allure and modern sophistication.