Sundazed (Allemagne de l'Ouest) années 70, veau de buffle, col gorgé profond, mise en forme de couture

SUNDAZED & OUTSIDE SOCIETY

...The 1970s buffalo calf leather trench fuses private-label German craft with cinematic silhouette, structural intelligence, and material authenticity.

The full-length buffalo leather trench coat, produced between approximately 1972 and 1978, represents a pinnacle expression of private-label leather tailoring during a pivotal moment in fashion history. Crafted from semi-aniline finished, full-grain buffalo calf leather, the coat fuses material authenticity, structural intelligence, and a cinematic silhouette to capture the post-hippie, pre-power-suit transition in women’s outerwear—a period that redefined autonomy, material presence, and urban sophistication in female dress. Rooted in private-label manufacturing traditions, likely catering to upscale department stores or boutique leather specialists, the garment reflects the industrial yet craft-attentive ethos of late 20th-century European-American crossover markets. These producers prioritized genuine high-quality hides—eschewing synthetics or heavy surface corrections—in favor of rugged tactile beauty and pragmatic durability. The selection of buffalo calf leather, with its fine but resilient grain and evolving patina potential, demonstrates a commitment to materials capable of embodying both strength and sensuality over time. Structurally, the coat employs a rational yet dramatic paneling strategy: large uninterrupted leather sections dominate the body, minimizing seam proliferation to preserve strength and emphasize vertical fluidity. A sharply contoured Western-style yoke across the upper chest and back breaks tension across the shoulders while introducing subtle dynamic geometry. Princess seams sculpt the front without disrupting leather flow, while a waist seam cleverly divides the torso and skirt for material efficiency and enhanced flare. The back features a single, deep vent—critical for stride ergonomics in a full-length silhouette. The pattern cuts for minimal restriction, relying on strategic seam shaping and the hide’s innate flex rather than excess tailoring intervention. Construction methodologies balance industrial efficiency with material respect. Seams are glue-set and machine-stitched with extended 4–5mm stitch lengths to avoid perforation fatigue, particularly critical in dense buffalo calf. Double topstitching reinforces structural lines at yokes, princess seams, and pocket joins, while button areas are internally faced with additional leather layers to resist tear stresses. The lining, a plain-weave synthetic taffeta, is bagged into facing and hem seams using a pragmatic inverted method, with minor tension pulls indicating manual setting—a choice that privileges durability over haute couture finishing. Detailing is deliberate and forceful: a wide, deep-gorged notched collar anchors the upper silhouette, emphasizing the garment’s sweeping verticality and framing the wearer’s presence. Four oversized horn-style buttons, shank-secured for structural reliability, punctuate the front closure with tangible mass. Hip-level patch-and-flap pockets are symmetrically aligned along princess seams, maintaining visual cohesion while enhancing utility. Cuffs are plain and assertive, allowing the sleeves to terminate cleanly without distraction, while the hemline subtly curves into the side seams to promote movement flow. Materially, the buffalo calf leather distinguishes the coat within both historical and contemporary contexts. Compared to adult buffalo hides, buffalo calf offers superior pliability and finer grain resolution while maintaining the species’ signature tensile strength and rugged surface complexity. The semi-aniline finish preserves the organic topography of the skin—visible pore structures, slight marbling, and natural scarification—allowing the leather to age dynamically, developing a deepened luster and micro-wrinkling characteristic of heritage-grade hides. The leather’s sensory engagement—warm, grainy, pliant yet durable—anchors the garment’s conceptual power as both armor and second skin. Psychologically, this coat projects a nuanced assertion of autonomy: it wraps the wearer in a tactile force-field of resilient beauty, displacing traditional feminine delicacy with an empowered materiality that simultaneously invites and deflects contact. Its material density and silhouette command space, yet its flexible structure and flowing lines eschew rigidity, embodying the era’s evolving gender dynamics and personal freedom narratives. It operates as sartorial self-possession: unbending yet sensuous, protective yet expressive. Artistically, the coat intersects existential realism with bohemian brutalism. It rejects decorative frivolity, embracing structural clarity, material tactility, and restrained theatricality. Its aesthetic resonates with the cinematic codes of the 1970s—evoking the dislocated glamour and controlled vulnerability seen in films like Klute and Love Story—while its technical underpinnings align with functional modernism: every seam, panel, and reinforcement serves both an aesthetic and pragmatic purpose. Historically, this trench sits precisely at the inflection point when women’s long coats departed from strict military tailoring and entered the realm of personal narrative—expressive of independence, embodied agency, and tactile engagement with one’s environment. Its proportions, construction methods, and material usage all place it squarely within the early-to-mid 1970s, aligning with broader cultural shifts toward authenticity, naturalism, and tactile luxury in fashion. Today, the coat possesses acute relevance: contemporary fashion cycles, increasingly attentive to archival craftsmanship and material authenticity, have revisited and revalorized such longline leather silhouettes. Brands like The Row, Saint Laurent, and Ann Demeulemeester actively explore similar convergences of strength, minimalism, and sensual materiality. In this context, the buffalo leather trench becomes not merely a vintage artifact but an active participant in ongoing dialogues around sustainability, luxury, and aesthetic permanence. In final evaluation, this full-length buffalo calf leather coat exemplifies exceptional mid-century industrial leather tailoring: a masterclass in materiality, silhouette control, and psychological resonance. It is not only viable but highly desirable within contemporary luxury-vintage and editorial fashion spheres, offering collectors, stylists, and wearers alike an authentic conduit to an era where material truth, structural presence, and existential beauty converged with rare coherence.

The vintage trench coat, crafted from supple yet robust buffalo calf leather, stands as a consummate exercise in post-hippie materiality meeting precision-architectural form, embodying a synthesis where organic surface vitality merges with disciplined structural exactitude. Its sharply gorged collar, meticulously seamed shaping across the bust and hips, and controlled A-line flare construct a silhouette that operates not as mere clothing but as an inhabited architectural environment, directly reflecting the sculptural formalism perfected by John Galliano and Chado Ralph Rucci, both of whom approach garments as spatial extensions of the human form. The coat’s deep grain, nuanced semi-gloss finish, and resilient materiality align closely with the philosophies of Haider Ackermann and Thierry Mugler, masters in transforming traditional notions of armor and sensuality through radical hide manipulation. The organic irregularity of the leather’s surface, resisting homogenized sheen in favor of a dynamic, evolving topography that records time and movement, resonates profoundly with Dries Van Noten’s intuitive material compositions and Guidi’s philosophy of irregular elegance. Structurally, the coat’s quiet modernism situates it alongside the work of Nehera and Lutz Huelle, designers who reengineer workwear typologies into sculptural, forward-looking silhouettes that privilege utility reframed as form. Rochas and Dosa provide historical and conceptual grounding for the coat’s balance of feminine silhouette with utilitarian pragmatism, where endurance and structural coherence supersede ornamental distraction. The expressive shaping of the collar and integration of pockets into the panel architecture suggest further parallels to Rodarte’s material romanticism and Pas De Calais’s artisan minimalism, where silhouette emerges from the inherent physics of the material rather than applied embellishment. The garment’s tailoring rigor and historically resonant proportions align closely with Giuliva’s reinterpretations of Neapolitan sartorial codes for women, constructing femininity through cut and structure rather than surface ornamentation. Its measured drama—bold yet tightly disciplined—reflects the spirit of Veronique Branquinho, where vulnerability and architectural precision function not in opposition but as interdependent forces. The leather’s heavy yet pliant modulation, eschewing uniform polish for dynamic, evolving tactility, embodies Hussein Chalayan’s material experimentation ethos and Salvatore Ferragamo’s legacy of weight-conscious engineering. Isabel Marant Étoile’s synthesis of urban relaxation with tailored precision informs the garment’s underlying ease, embedded within its otherwise commanding shell, while Mercedes Castillo’s material-purity ethos reinforces the coat’s resistance to extraneous detail, allowing surface and structure alone to generate meaning. Artistically, the coat’s austere formality positions it firmly within the sustainable luxury vision of Stella McCartney and the serene, architecture-first design language of Maison Ullens. Emanuel Ungaro’s instinct for amplifying physical gesture—through the sculptural folding of collars and sleeves—surfaces in the coat’s kinetic shaping, while Ted Lapidus’s Parisian minimalism echoes in the garment’s uninterrupted body structure. Narciso Rodriguez’s anatomical tailoring logic is sensed in the coat’s unbroken verticality and ergonomic restraint, where movement and structure coalesce. The near-topographic interplay of grain, paneling, and light situates the coat within Iris van Herpen’s dynamic surface strategies, albeit realized here through organic material processes rather than technical fabrication. Azzedine Alaïa’s mastery of volumetric shaping through hidden seam engineering is suggested powerfully in the coat’s subtle flaring and internal tension, which animate its silhouette without resorting to visual excess. Psychologically, the garment operates on a dual register—simultaneously armor-like and intimately personal—mirroring the early explorations of Alexander McQueen, where vulnerability and strength are rendered inseparable. The bold formal clarity and strategic modernism trace direct lineage to Yves Saint Laurent’s revolutionary redefinitions of feminine outerwear, establishing a historical continuum of empowered silhouette rearticulation. In the contemporary market, this trench coat’s material rigor and form-driven sensuality find natural affinity with Prada’s forward minimalism, while parallels to Mina Perhonen and Dear Frances reinforce its commitment to artisan material manipulation and architectural gentleness, addressing an audience that demands tactile authenticity, structural coherence, and emotional depth. The sculptural precision of this vintage buffalo calf leather trench coat finds unmistakable kinship with Ann Demeulemeester’s exploration of emotional armor, where surface tactility and silhouette are wielded with somatic intensity, allowing material and form to serve simultaneously as instruments of protection and expression. The coat’s structural lucidity and reverence for the innate properties of leather share profound parallels with The Row’s obsessive devotion to line purity and substance-driven design, where organic irregularity guides form rather than being smoothed away, producing an architecture of surface free from ornamental excess. AF Vandevorst’s tension between utilitarian severity and romantic vulnerability courses through the coat’s design logic, embodied particularly in the deeply gorged collar and anchored, seam-mapped panel construction that projects an electrically charged spatiality around the body. Ports 1961’s recent explorations of textural minimalism find resonance here in the way grain, weight, and tactile friction are elevated beyond mere surface interest into a vehicle for architectural coherence, where every modulation in material density contributes to a cohesive structural rhythm. Margaret Howell’s utilitarian refinement surfaces decisively in the trench’s integrated pocketwork and functional seam pathways, privileging structural necessity as an aesthetic virtue. Yohji Yamamoto’s manipulation of volume through material gravity is mirrored in the coat’s orchestration of controlled A-line flare, where the heavy yet pliant leather negotiates between discipline and drift, registering movement with solemn, dynamic grace across its evolving surface. Finally, the assertive sensuality tempered by technical restraint unmistakably recalls Barbara Bui’s empowered tailoring language, where material mass, structural contouring, and silhouette sharpness converge into a coherent, quietly commanding presence. In totality, this coat fuses tactile intelligence, emotional structure, and historical material resonance into a singular expression: a garment that does not simply inhabit the space around the wearer but transforms it, merging protection, sensuality, and architecture into one continuous, embodied act of design.

Measurements (cm):
Chest: 48
Length: 107
Shoulder: 43
Sleeve: 59



Size Conversion (approximate)
US Women’s Size: M
EU Women’s Size: 38


SKU: 015042

€ 80.38