Licona (Allemagne) années 70, milieu du siècle, tweed pied de poule, vêtements de campagne

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This vintage double-breasted houndstooth blazer by Licona is a quintessential representation of mid-to-late 20th-century European menswear tailoring. Featuring a structured silhouette, bold lapels, and a premium wool blend, it embodies the era’s commitment to craftsmanship and longevity. The label “Europäische Herrenmode” indicates a strong focus on sophisticated European menswear, emphasizing precise tailoring and classic aesthetics rooted in both British and German sartorial traditions. While Licona is not a globally recognized heritage brand, its execution aligns with the robust tradition of German and Austrian tailoring, which often borrows from British influences while maintaining distinct European precision. The structured cut, fabric choice, and double-breasted front closure position this blazer within the framework of high-quality mid-century European tailoring. The blazer’s design follows a traditional six-button, double-breasted front closure, reinforcing a structured, authoritative style that aligns with classic menswear. The notched lapels are wider than contemporary standards, accentuating a bold vintage silhouette that draws from power dressing aesthetics of the late 20th century. The brown and beige houndstooth pattern evokes traditional British countryside tailoring, yet the fit and proportions lean toward European sartorial sensibilities. Patch-style flap pockets add a balance of formality and casual refinement, allowing versatility in styling. The single back vent ensures ease of movement while maintaining a tailored appearance, and the lightly padded shoulders provide structure without rigidity, preserving a refined yet comfortable drape. The medium-width sleeves feature three-button cuffs, adding a tailored but slightly relaxed detail. The construction follows traditional tailoring techniques, likely incorporating a fully or half-canvassed interlining to ensure the blazer retains its shape over time. Set-in sleeves create a clean, tailored fit around the shoulders, while precise topstitching along lapels and pockets enhances durability and defines the garment’s contours. The interior features reinforced pocket seams, a hallmark of quality construction, ensuring longevity. The blazer’s overall execution reflects meticulous craftsmanship, with careful attention to proportion and structure. The fabric is a houndstooth twill weave, characterized by a broken check pattern formed by alternating light and dark yarns in a staggered arrangement. This weave is a variation of traditional twill, ensuring durability while maintaining a soft, textured hand. The material composition consists of 80% wool, 10% viscose, and 10% other fibers, balancing warmth, drape, and breathability. The inclusion of viscose enhances fluidity, making the fabric more adaptable to modern tailoring while reducing the rigidity of pure wool tweeds. The high-twist weave structure provides a crisp, well-defined drape, reinforcing the jacket’s tailored silhouette while ensuring a degree of flexibility. This fabric shares significant historical and technical characteristics with several renowned heritage textiles. Scottish houndstooth tweed, traditionally woven in the Scottish Highlands, was historically produced using natural wool dyed with plant-based pigments, making it synonymous with British countrywear. Donegal tweed, a looser-woven fabric with a speckled texture, originates from Ireland and offers a similar rustic quality. Shetland tweed, a softer variant of traditional tweeds, often incorporates intricate weave variations like houndstooth, commonly used for jackets and coats. French Pied-de-Poule, the refined equivalent of houndstooth, has been elevated by luxury fashion houses into a more precise and elegant weave. These fabrics, while distinct in execution, share common threads in structure, functionality, and historical relevance. Several heritage textile mills specialize in producing high-quality houndstooth wool textiles, reinforcing the blazer’s alignment with premium fabric traditions. Lovat Mill in Scotland is renowned for authentic tweeds and houndstooth patterns woven using traditional methods, maintaining historical accuracy and superior craftsmanship. Abraham Moon & Sons in the UK specializes in wool fabrics, including classic houndstooth tweeds, ensuring durability and refined texture. Johnstons of Elgin, another Scottish mill, produces fine wool and cashmere blends, often incorporating luxurious takes on traditional British weaves. Molino Minetti in Italy is known for softer, more contemporary interpretations of tweeds, offering a refined finish while maintaining the authenticity of the pattern. The wool base ensures durability and resistance to wear, while wool’s natural temperature-regulating properties make the blazer suitable for both warm and cold climates. The inclusion of viscose enhances drape, making the fabric more pliable than traditional tweeds. The houndstooth weave structure offers a distinct, visually engaging pattern without compromising fabric integrity. This wool-blend fabric, deeply rooted in British and Scottish textile traditions, is well-suited for structured outerwear and blazers, offering both resilience and a touch of softness. The carefully executed weave and fiber blend contribute to its luxurious yet practical character. The blazer follows a traditional multi-panel construction, enhancing anatomical shaping and movement. The lapels are structured with a generous width, reinforcing the strong, authoritative silhouette that defines double-breasted tailoring. The pocket arrangement includes two large patch pockets at the waist and a welted chest pocket, reinforcing the jacket’s casual yet refined character. Patch pockets contribute to a relaxed tailoring aesthetic, making this blazer versatile for both semi-formal and casual styling. The back features a single vent, allowing greater ease of movement while preserving a streamlined profile. The shoulder construction is soft and lightly padded, following the natural shoulder line rather than creating a heavily structured look. This approach aligns with traditional English and Neapolitan tailoring styles, favoring a relaxed yet refined drape. The blazer is secured with dark brown leather-covered buttons, a traditional equestrian and sporting detail commonly found in heritage menswear. The buttons are firmly stitched with a reinforced shank, ensuring durability and resistance to wear. The lapel features meticulous topstitching, reinforcing the edges while maintaining a clean, structured appearance. The half-canvassed construction ensures shape retention while allowing flexibility, making this blazer both durable and comfortable. The interior features multiple pockets, including a buttoned security pocket, enhancing functionality for everyday wear. Attention to finishing details further underscores the blazer’s craftsmanship. The houndstooth pattern is expertly matched across panels, reflecting meticulous tailoring. The structured lapel roll, indicative of traditional floating canvas construction, maintains an elegant drape. High-precision interior finishing includes neatly executed seams and reinforced pocket linings, ensuring longevity. The back vent is reinforced, preventing distortion over time. The high-quality edge stitching along the lapels and pocket edges adds durability without bulk. Hand-finished buttonholes, likely machine-stitched for durability, are cleanly executed, with the lapel buttonhole remaining functional. The overall aesthetic channels mid-century European menswear, particularly German and Austrian tailoring traditions, which favored structured silhouettes and durable natural fiber blends. The houndstooth pattern references traditional British hunting attire, yet here, it is adapted into a city-appropriate, formalized design. The double-breasted closure and wide peak lapels reinforce the power-dressing aesthetics of the 1980s and early 1990s, a time when tailored menswear emphasized commanding silhouettes. The earthy brown tones ensure versatility, making it appropriate for both formal and social settings. Houndstooth tailoring remains a staple in contemporary menswear, often reinterpreted by brands like Ralph Lauren, Dries Van Noten, and Brunello Cucinelli. The structured tailoring of this blazer, balanced with its workwear-inspired details, ensures its continued relevance. With the growing demand for vintage-inspired menswear, this piece remains a strong addition to any refined, classic wardrobe. The fit is moderately tailored with room for layering, while the extended shoulder line emphasizes a strong, masculine silhouette. Vertical darting subtly contours the waist without excessive constriction, ensuring a polished yet relaxed drape. This Licona double-breasted blazer is a well-executed example of mid-century European tailoring, combining high-quality wool textiles with meticulous construction. The structured silhouette, premium fabric, and classic houndstooth weave create a sophisticated yet enduring aesthetic. While its wide lapels and bold fit place it in a vintage category, its timeless styling, durability, and expert craftsmanship ensure its long-term relevance in classic menswear. The combination of British heritage patterning with German precision tailoring results in a piece that balances tradition with adaptability, making it a valuable addition to any sartorially inclined wardrobe.

This Licona houndstooth tweed blazer epitomizes the fundamental tenets of traditional British country tailoring, seamlessly integrating the rugged authenticity of heritage textiles with an underlying sophistication in silhouette and construction. The weighty, textured weave and structured profile reflect a lineage of craftsmanship rooted in functional elegance, aligning with Sartorio Napoli’s equilibrium between soft tailoring and classic detailing. This balance extends to the philosophy of The Armoury and Lardini, whose shared reverence for relaxed yet disciplined structure within tailoring finds a natural parallel in the blazer’s composed yet unforced drape. The three-button stance, slightly extended silhouette, and assertive lapels channel Oxxford’s nuanced grasp of American tailoring, where precision meets quiet opulence, while Corneliani refines the execution through an Italian lens—imparting fluidity without sacrificing architectural integrity. Richard James’ Savile Row sensibilities further crystallize this interplay, ensuring that the garment remains firmly anchored in a contemporary framework while retaining its historical pedigree. From a textile perspective, Paul Stuart and Ralph Lauren Blue Label’s enduring commitment to heritage tweeds and English countryside aesthetics render their association with this piece both inevitable and deeply contextual. Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece strengthens this alignment, consistently weaving traditional patterns into an updated sartorial lexicon. The incorporation of Loro Piana’s premium wool further elevates the composition, reinforcing both the structural longevity and the tactile opulence of the fabric. The blazer’s material character finds additional resonance in the philosophy of Harris Wharf London, whose reinterpretation of structured outerwear imparts a contemporary sharpness to time-honored designs. Cordings Piccadilly, with its storied legacy in British countrywear, further cements the garment’s role within a lineage of practical yet refined tailoring, emphasizing the intrinsic functionality of robust tweeds in a modern wardrobe. Extending into the realm of avant-garde interpretations, John Alexander Skelton’s reworking of historical textiles through an artisanal, almost primitive lens situates this blazer within a broader narrative of raw materiality and unembellished authenticity. Carol Christian Poell’s deconstructivist approach, with its radical interrogation of fabric treatments and structural subversion, offers a counterpoint that amplifies the blazer’s inherent aged, textural complexity. Giorgio Brato, with his deep exploration of material distressing and organic manipulation, further enriches this dialogue, underscoring the blazer’s ability to transcend conventional tailoring while preserving its rugged elegance. This garment stands as a distillation of historical craftsmanship, interweaving the pastoral austerity of British countryside aesthetics with a progressive tailoring ethos. Every facet—from the silhouette’s disciplined yet wearable structure to the meticulously curated materiality—attests to a synthesis of tradition and innovation. The selected brand comparisons reinforce a multidimensional perspective, ensuring an analysis that is not only contextually rigorous but also reflective of an evolving menswear paradigm where heritage and contemporary execution exist in continuous interplay.

Measurements (cm)

Chest: 51

Length: 72

Shoulder: 44

Sleeve: 56

Size Conversion (approximate)
US Men’s Size: S–M
US Women’s Size: 8–10
EU Men’s Size: 46–48

SKU: 005113

€ 59.48